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Posted October 2005
Santa Barbara, CA Wine Tours Taken Sideways
When folks in Buellton, CA heard
about a little-known author writing a novel about their town, they
were a bit under whelmed. Rex Pickett, who penned Sideways, would
often visit Santa Barbara’s
nearby wine country, chatting with locals and telling them he was
writing a book about the wine country. But it wasn’t until
movie scouts came to town that the owner of the now-famous Hitching
Post 2, Frank Ostini, really knew something big was about to happen.
Really big.
Though the wineries in Santa Ynez, Santa Maria,
Los Olivos, Buellton and Lompoc have been quietly gaining influence
for the last 20 years or so, it wasn’t until Hollywood came
to town that this noteworthy Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-growing
region got major national exposure.
The film’s main characters, Miles and Jack, spend a week tasting
wine, eating, golfing and having some rather complicated romantic
interludes that inevitably involve more eating and drinking—especially
of the region’s emerging Pinot Noirs.
Many local businesses are taking advantage of the interest sparked
by the movie, offering Sideways packages that include everything
from maps to replica dinners, hotel stays and winery tours.
But whether or not you’re a fan of Jack, Miles and the rest
of the Sideways characters, there’s plenty for visitors to
do-- from windmill spotting in the Danish town of Solvang to ostrich-riding,
golfing, beach-tripping and, of course, sipping through the ever-growing
list of wineries in the region.
WINERIES:
Fess
Parker Winery: One of the largest and most popular
wineries in Foxen Canyon, Fess Parker is owned by former Hollywood
icon, Fess Parker (of Daniel Boone and Davy Crockett fame). A savvy
real-estate investor, Parker purchased the 714 acre Santa Ynez ranch
in 1987, building a large-scale winery, restaurant, inn and spa on
the property. The winery, open less than a decade, has built a reputation
for Pinot Noir and Syrah. The winery also offers a value-priced red
blend, “Frontier Red” for $10. Called “Frass Canyon” in
the film, it is the spot where Miles drinks the spit bucked after a pourer
refuses to serve him a full glass of wine. The winery, seeing brisk business
from Sideways fans, has distanced themselves from the association with Frass
by humorous t-shirts with the slogan, “You bet your (image of a donkey’s
posterior) we’re not Frass.”
Fess Parker Winery, 6200 Foxen Canyon Road, Los Olivos, (800) 841.1104.
www.fessparker.com
Firestone Winery: Long before Sideways, Firestone put itself on the
map as the winery co-owned by “The Bachelor” hunk and trust-fund heart-throb,
Andrew Firestone. Aside from Andrew, the winery is best known for its Chardonnay. The
film featured Firestone’s barrel rooms as a makeout spot for Jack and
Stephanie.
5000 Zaca Station Road, Los Olivos, (805) 688.3940.
www.firestonewine.com
Foxen
Winery: One of the smaller wineries on the tour, this boutique
winery is located on land once owned by William Foxen, an English sea
captain who purchased most of what is now Foxen Canyon (about 9,000
acres) in the late 1800s. Co-owner Dick Dore is the great-great-grandson
of Foxen, and since 1985 has been making solid Pinot Noirs.
Foxen was a minor player in the movie, its small tasting room, once
Dore’s
great-grandfather’s blacksmith shop, is featured in a split-screen
sequence of the movie when Jack helps himself to the wine when the pourer
goes to help another customer.
Foxen Winery, 7200 Foxen Canyon Road, Santa Maria, (805) 937.4251. www.foxenvineyard.com
Kalyra Winery: Taken from the Aboriginal word for, “A wild and pleasant
place,” this small Santa Ynez winery is owned by Australian-born winemaker,
Mike Brown, who’s day job is as winemaker for nearby Buttonwood Winery.
Kalyra wines are a side-project that’s taken on a life of its own, featuring
primarily Rhone varietals. Brown also makes wines in Australia, under the M.Brown
label. At this wild and pleasant place, Jack meets the wild wine-pourer,
Stephanie, who shares a few romantic days with him—and ultimately, a
motorcycle helmet-to-the-head.
Kalyra Winery, 343 N. Refugio Rd, Santa Ynez, (805) 693.8864. www.kalyrawinery.com
Sanford Winery: Sanford is a family-owned producer of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
with a passion for sustainability and organic growing practices. The winery
is built from hand-made adobe bricks and 95-year-old recycled timbers. The
nearby tasting room is little more than a rustic, converted dairy barn, with
shelves nearly bursting with wine, architecture and 60’s counter-culture
tomes. Look for Chris, the cowboy-hat-wearing pourer who appears in Sideways
as…himself. With Chris looking on amusedly, Miles educates Jack on
the finer points of wine-tasting, describing a glass of Pinot Gris as having
a “soupcon of asparagus and just a flutter of nutty Edam cheese.”
WHERE THEY ATE:
AJ Spurs: Though cowboy and chuck wagon decor
speaks more to sidling up to the bar for a shot of tequila—or at least a beer—this
casual-dining outpost and saloon has an extensive wine list highlighting
many local producers. The menu features mostly steaks, ribs and hearty
ranch-hand fare.
Hitching Post II: This favorite local restaurant has roots that date back more
than 50-years, though the Buellton outpost has only been around since 1986.
Owned by the Ostini family, the original restaurant in Casmalia featured “Santa
Maria-style BBQ” focused on hearty steak and poultry dishes. In Buellton,
the restaurant also includes more refined items like ostrich steaks, quail,
duck and seafood.
In the movie, you’ll hear the characters at the bar ask for
a “Highliner”—those in the know will recognize
it as the restaurant’s own brand of Pinot Noir from its Hartley
Ostini Hitching Post Winery. Within walking distance of their
hotel, Jack and Miles spend several evenings chatting with the bartender,
eating dinner and flirting with Maya, the waitress who gains Miles’ affection.
Solvang Restaurant: Become an honorary Dane for the day in Solvang,
a transplanted European hamlet with flower-lined streets, and all
the Aebelskiver you can eat. Originally a small colony of
Danish immigrants, the tiny town of Solvang held onto its customs
and traditions, including traditional Danish architecture, foods,
and celebrations. Today, tourists can experience the Old World charm
of Europe in a town spotted with windmills and tulips…all
within a few minutes of the Santa Ynez vineyards.
The Solvang Restaurant is a favorite breakfast
spot famous for their tiny ball-like pancakes called Aebelskiver.
Topped with raspberry jam and served up with a side of Danish sausage,
they’re a
perfect way to get the morning started. Though it just got a cameo
in the movie, Miles and Jack share a cup of coffee at the restaurant.
Solvang Restaurant, 1672 Copenhagen Dr., Solvang, (805) 688.4645,
www.solvangrestaurant.com
Los Olivos Café and
Wine Merchant: You’ll find locals
lining up for this popular upscale eatery that features many local
wines and regional dishes. Menu items include chicken, sandwiches
and pizzas for lunch and Mediterranean-influenced entrees like chicken
parmigiana, pasta and salmon for dinner. Don’t miss the chocolate
scream dessert: homemade vanilla ice cream, a flourless chocolate
cake and caramel sauce.
Los Olivos Café and Wine Merchant 2879
Grand Avenue, Los Olivos, (888) WINES4U
WHERE THEY SLEPT:
Days Inn Buellton: Home of the big windmill,
the Days Inn Buellton isn’t particularly fancy—your standard motel with a pool,
cable tv and an ice machine. The big appeal is the star-factor…the
hotel is featured prominently in the movie, specifically Jack and
Miles’ room, #234, which is constantly booked.
114 E. Hwy 246, Buellton, (805) 688.8448.
Special Note: Wine Valley Inn offers a special Sideways package that includes
a bottle of Firestone Wine, a $25 gift certificate to the Solvang Restaurant,
map of selected spots featured in the movie and more. www.winevalleyinn.com
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Photography courtesy of the Santa Barbara CVB
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